Ancient Trails
- You would enjoy quieter paths and evenings in smaller huts.
- Old, sometimes faint tracks and varied footing appeal to you.
- You want a guided six-day trip with two planned hot-spring baths and only a daypack to carry.
I've walked both Laugavegur and Ancient Trails. Both are beautiful Highland journeys. The differences are in the walking, the atmosphere and the evenings in the huts.
Laugavegur is Iceland's best-known trek: roughly 54 km, often spread over four to six days. Ancient Trails is a six-day trip with about 60 km of hiking farther north in the central Highlands. Distance alone does not tell you which will suit you best.
Quick comparison
The journeys at a glance
Compare
Ancient Trails
Laugavegur
Trip length
Ancient TrailsSix days · about 60 km of hiking
LaugavegurFour to six days · roughly 54 km
Walking pattern
Ancient TrailsA six-day Highland crossing with faint and off-trail stretches
LaugavegurA four- to six-day Highland crossing on a marked trail
Colors & plants
Ancient TrailsPale rhyolite, dark lava, moss, grasses and small wildflowers
LaugavegurPink and yellow rhyolite, black sand, bright moss and birch woodland
Hot-spring bathing
Ancient TrailsTwo planned baths on this trip
LaugavegurOne possible bath near the start
Footing & effort
Ancient TrailsOld tracks and uneven ground; a substantial climb and an optional summit
LaugavegurA marked trail with significant climbs and steep descents on some days
River crossings
Ancient TrailsWading is rarely needed, but possible in high water
LaugavegurAt least three rivers normally require wading
Trail atmosphere
Ancient TrailsQuieter and more spacious
LaugavegurLively and well travelled in peak summer
Overnights
Ancient TrailsFive shared huts, often quiet; showers in the first two
LaugavegurLarger shared huts or camping; showers at most huts
Planning & support
Ancient TrailsThis six-day trip is guided; meals, huts and main-bag transport are arranged
LaugavegurWalk independently or choose a guided trip; inclusions vary
The difference in feel
Two beautiful ways into the Highlands
Laugavegur
- You want a marked trail through quickly changing scenery.
- You would enjoy the social energy of a well-known trail and larger huts.
- You want the option to plan it yourself or choose a guided trip at your preferred pace.
Where they take you
Two different parts of the Highlands
The story underfoot
Two routes, two histories
Ancient Trails
The trip draws on Kjalvegur, an old crossing between north and south Iceland. Cairns and horse-worn tracks still make parts of that history visible underfoot.
Laugavegur
The continuous hut-to-hut trail familiar today took shape in the 1970s, when the Iceland Touring Association added huts, a bridge and route markers.
Color and plant life
Two palettes, both full of contrast
Both journeys have multicolored rhyolite, geothermal ground, green valleys and glacier views. Laugavegur changes scene quickly; on Ancient Trails, the views tend to stretch farther.
Laugavegur moves from grey, pink and yellow mountains to black obsidian and volcanic sand, then vivid green moss and birch woodland. Some exposed stretches are almost bare, which makes the green valleys stand out even more.
Ancient Trails has pale rhyolite, yellow mineral deposits and blue-grey geothermal mud, followed by dark lava, light gravel and wide glacier views. Moss, grass, wildflowers and occasional small birches bring color to sheltered, wetter ground. Much of the journey remains open country rather than woodland.
Colors along the way
Ancient Trails
Laugavegur
On the trail
Climbs, footing and river crossings
Laugavegur follows a marked trail, but some days have substantial climbing and steep, rocky descents. Fog or snow can make the markers harder to see. The daily effort also depends on whether you spread the route over four, five or six days and how much you carry.
Ancient Trails has about 60 km of hiking across six days. The ground can be demanding: old horse tracks worn deep into the ground, rocky lava and bumpy ground dotted with moss. Some stretches have no clear trail. One day has a substantial climb, and the optional summit walk adds another steep ascent.
Having walked both, I found some Laugavegur days a little harder because they involved more climbing. Ancient Trails has its own substantial ascent, while the uneven footing can be tiring in a different way.
The river crossings differ as well. On Laugavegur, at least three rivers normally require wading. On Ancient Trails, we almost never need to wade, though high water can change that.
After the walk
Huts, company and hot springs
If you stay in huts on either journey, expect shared sleeping rather than a private room. Laugavegur's main huts typically sleep around 50 to 80 people, with communal kitchens and other groups and campers nearby in summer. Most have showers and flush toilets, though the high Hrafntinnusker hut has neither.
The Ancient Trails trip uses five huts. The smaller ones sleep roughly 12 to 30 people, and our group often has a hut to itself. Showers are available in the first two huts but not the last three. Four of the five have flush toilets; the third has an outhouse. Sleeping space is shared, and the group has no more than ten guests.
Ancient Trails includes two hot-spring baths, one on each of the first two days; a cold dip may be possible later if conditions allow. Laugavegur has a natural hot spring at the start, though whether you bathe depends on the itinerary.
Before you book
Compare the whole itinerary
You can walk Laugavegur independently or with a guide, staying in huts or camping. If you plan it yourself, arrange transport, food and hut or campsite reservations well ahead. On a guided trip, check whether meals and luggage transfers are included.
The Ancient Trails trip described here includes guides, hut nights, meals, a sleeping bag and transport for your main luggage; you carry a daypack. Its Icelandic guides, who grew up here, share history, mythology and folklore along the way. Both routes can be guided and supported, so compare daily ascent, what you will carry, sleeping arrangements and what is included.
Good to know
Common questions
Do the two journeys follow the same route?
No. Laugavegur crosses the southern Highlands; Ancient Trails travels farther north through the central Highlands. They do not share a path or mountain huts. The map above shows their broad locations, not the hiking routes.
Do I need to book the huts myself?
If you plan Laugavegur independently, reserve your hut or campsite nights in advance. A guided Laugavegur trip may arrange them for you; check what is included. The hut nights on the Ancient Trails trip described here are arranged as part of the trip.
Can both journeys be guided?
Yes. Laugavegur can be walked independently or with a guide; support and luggage arrangements vary by trip. The Ancient Trails trip described here is guided, with your main bag transported between huts.
Keep exploring
A few more field notes
Ancient Trails in detail
